What he says in those first 45 seconds is dead on and has been true for at least 50 years (and I know. I've been there :-). He perfectly diagnoses the root cause of the frustration: we are dealing with a "geriatric" system where everything is already spoken for. Red tape is causing total gridlock, and the younger generation is left fighting over the scraps.

This right here is exactly why repair culture is so important. When the system locks us out and makes it impossible to own anything, fixing those scraps is how we claim ownership. It is the best way to push back against the gridlock.

Huge kudos to iFixit for stepping up and throwing their weight behind creators who actually understand the struggle.

Repair is War on Entropy!!!!!

Translation

Ein riesiges Lob an iFixit für das Sponsoring dieser Folge von „The Post Apocalyptic Inventor“: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xN6jNfO....

Was er in diesen ersten 45 Sekunden sagt, trifft den Nagel auf den Kopf und gilt schon seit mindestens 50 Jahren (und ich weiß, wovon ich rede; ich hab’s selbst erlebt :-). Er diagnostiziert die eigentliche Ursache der Frustration perfekt: Wir haben es mit einem „veralteten“ System zu tun, in dem schon alles vergeben ist. Bürokratie sorgt für einen totalen Stillstand, und die jüngere Generation muss sich um die Krümel streiten.

Genau das ist der Grund, warum die Reparaturkultur so wichtig ist. Wenn das System uns ausschließt und es unmöglich macht, irgendetwas zu besitzen, dann erlangen wir durch das Reparieren dieser Reste Besitzansprüche. Es ist der beste Weg, dem Stillstand entgegenzuwirken.

Ein riesiges Lob an iFixit dafür, dass sie sich engagieren und sich hinter Kreative stellen, die diesen Kampf tatsächlich verstehen.

Reparieren ist Krieg gegen die Entropie!!!!!

⟐ Edited by author July 06, 2026 at 18:48 MST

I tried hard reset and it came on but has gone back to the way it was after 3 days.

What could be wrong with it and how do I solve it.

⟐ Commented July 05, 2026 at 14:46 MST

English: I want to repair the motherboard rydis mr7700

I found the LVC 14A integrated circuit, burned on the board

⟐ Commented July 05, 2026 at 14:19 MST

⟐ Commented July 02, 2026 at 21:00 MST

Case study: the HMD Skyline

Advertised as a Repair-It-Yourself phone, it made the headlines, and it made it in my hands in July 2025. The repair score made it encouraging.

Now? Battery swollen, can't find any replacement parts ever and I had to dig 10 pages of Aliexpress to find a supplier that still sells them even tho it's still quite recent.

Many people have reported such issues and yet, the 9/10 score still stands.

What's the point of an easy to repair phone if you can't truly repair it yourself after a certain small time period(1 year for the Skyline for example).

In my opinion, it degrades the value of the score and tends to make it seem useless. Why does an older 4/10 repairable phone still stand a chance at repairs but a newer 9/10 can't?

⟐ Commented May 19, 2026 at 8:19 MST

If Nintendo replaced the Switch 2's gluey battery glue with a few IP1s, life will be so much better

⟐ Commented May 11, 2026 at 19:09 MST

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+rebu...

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/*Amendment*...

These replace the original which I have since made private. Anything you guys would like me to add?

⟐ Commented April 18, 2026 at 19:29 MST

⟐ Edited May 05, 2026 at 13:33 MST

Well at least we can wait 12 years before having a panic attack about this Y2K bug

⟐ Edited May 05, 2026 at 13:34 MST

First off, thank you for the detailed Galaxy XR teardown. It was extremely helpful and well documented.

I had a follow-up question regarding the rear adjustment mechanism. In the teardown, the back tightening knob and headband assembly were not disassembled. Many early users are reporting comfort issues, and some of the current community “mods” involve cutting the plastic near the integrated headphone sections to relieve pressure. That approach feels fairly destructive and irreversible.

Would it be possible for the iFixit team to disassemble the rear knob assembly and document what’s happening structurally inside?

Specifically:

• Is the headband a single continuous molded plastic loop?
• Or is it split or mechanically joined at the rear near the adjustment knob?
• Does the tightening mechanism connect to a separable internal band that could potentially be modified or replaced?

If the rear plastic housing can be opened without destroying the strap, it might expose an opportunity for non-destructive comfort modifications or add-on padding systems that attach at the adjustment interface instead of requiring users to cut the main band.

Given how many users are experimenting already, documentation here could help the community pursue safer and reversible comfort solutions.

Appreciate the teardown and looking forward to your insight.

Congrats on getting to the 100K rep points a few days ago.

Great contributor over the last 16+ years.

Always enjoy reading your posts.

Cheers.

⟐ Edited May 05, 2026 at 13:33 MST

I'm basically going to JB-Weld the part that broke on without doing it to the LCD so I can service it, and save the palmrest cost as I can't find them readily. If the palmrest is just too far gone or breaks again, I know I need to buy one - but I'm going to try the repair first. The tube of JB-Weld was $8.

Would anyone like to see this? It's an older laptop but for $25 I'm giving it a shot. I basically won the lottery because nobody wanted the computers and I didn't know exactly which one I got, but I knew enough to narrow it down to be newer then 7th gen. It's a $7-8 repair if you can use JB-Weld on it, but one that is too iffy to run professionally. When you need to be sure with the 7590, you replace the palmrest - when you can risk it, this SOMETIMES works.

⟐ Edited May 05, 2026 at 13:34 MST

This is not exactly a question, but I haven't found better place :(

While this suggestions are meant mostly for iFixit team, but because I couldn't find any e-mail to write to iFixit, I'm writing them here on the forum. And on the second thought, maybe you (the other users) have similar feelings like me and you can - so to speak - "vote" on those suggestions :)

Before I begin, a little story.

If you're from iFixit team, please read. If you here just for suggestions, just jump straight to "Suggestions" section :)

I'm not any pro user, not pro repairer. I just needed good soldering iron for very occasional fixes. Or maybe for future when I finally some day start learning with electronics... anyway, here in Poland most of soldering irons are available as iron connected directly to mains in the wall. Sometimes maybe with additional temp control and nothing more. And it takes few minutes to heat up...

So I asked friend who did some electronics and he immiedately proposed me iFixit. Well... it wasn't really proposal... it was more like "I've got iFixit, and you must get it, there's nothing else so good". (Friend moved to US, I'm still in Poland)

I looked into website, ordered with kinda pain in the wallet and tear in my eye due to price. Yeah, I didn't want to order small pieces, so I decided to order probably most expensive set "FixHub | Power Series Soldering Toolkit" with almost everything. Along some tools like Magnetic Pickup Tool and FixMat (that's a cool one!).

I've had slight problems at first startup (read 1st suggestion in which I explained), but after 2 uses... I must say... I was amazed and this is exactly textbook example of difference between "price" vs. "value". Because this thing is %#*@ cheap by what it gives!

• Battery pack so I can use it on-the-go? Hell yeah! I do occasional side gigs (literal gigs lol) being technicial/live sound mixing guy, and I've seen multiple times that other techs fixed something right before concert because something broke. Other tools I looked in the shops? Need standard wall power... and while there's a lot of power at concerts, it's always very inconvinient to iron with cable hanging on the back of the rack in half-darkness or whatever, so it's great to have battery!
• Heating speed - ON MY GOD IT'S SO FAST!!! It takes me 10x longer to take this Hub from my closet, open pouch, take the Hub off, take the USB-C table off it, take the iron out of it, connect together and start than actually wait for heating... The tip of iron gets into 270C in just few seconds! There's your value, RIGHT THERE! I love it. No need to connect ironing tool into socket, and go make a tea and eat half a dinner because now you have to wait 5 minut with traiditional ironing tool to heat... not to mention, how unprecise such heating it, while in iFixit I can specify temperature very precisely.
• Oh, should I mention the solder cap so I don't burn myself by accident when I finish using it?

I also ordered this to be able to push insets into my 3D prints (so I need to heat inset and just push), and I was worried that minimum possible temperature of 200C is too high for this, as PLA starts melting at about 65-70C. Turned out... I didn't need to worry, because I would need constant heat of 65C for weeks/months in order to PLA start melting. I started with 200C and I wasn't able to melt that plastic, so... yeah, no need to worry if you want to use this with 3D printing, as you still need to set it to 250-270C like your 3D Printer does in order to melt plastic fast :D

After those experiences - even including initial problems - it's still the best money I've ever spent. Even for my very occasional use (just few times a year at most!).

Finally the Suggestions:

1. Web interface

At first I've had problems starting device, read few articles, turns out some devices were sent with some weird problematic firmware and I just had to do update. Sounds easy right? Especially that I found out, that I can simply connect device into computer, and there's nice web site that can access RS232 devices - and this soldering hub to be specific.

Well... there was issue I didn't understand at I don't think I read somewhere specifically - The Hub has separate web UI than soldering iron itself.

I mean - it's obvious that they have since they are different devices, but it wasn't exactly clear.

What I mean is: on Hub web UI I can upgrade Hub's firmware. But I need to connect iron separately to computer in order to upgrade Soldering Iron firmware. Then I also discovered that I can control Soldering Iron from Chrome (not exactly useful feature to me, due to where my docking station is placed on the desk, but hey, cool feature and might be very useful in some occasions!).

The problem I had is that on Hub's web UI, I was seeing that Iron was connected to one of the USB-C ports, so I was somehow trying to find a way to set parameters of Soldering Iron and upgrade firmware (essentially, access UI of the Iron itself since this is was I was seeing in Google Search)! But it turned out to be not possible and I just had to connect Iron separately.

So the suggestion is:

• Can we have possibility of upgrading Iron's firmware along with controlling specific Irons through Hub's web interface? That would make updating firmware and general operation far easier to understand for first-time users :)
• Also, on https://www.ifixit.com/fixhub/console please explain why Firefox is not compatible. Given how false such info are on many websites, I tend to simply switch User Agent to access website on Firefox. But it turned out, you need Serial access through browser which is really technical limitation this time. Please just include "Hey, you're browser doesn't support Serial access so you need to use another one" :)

2. Offline web UI

Given what I wrote about live concert situation, usually there's no internet at the place, and even if we could use LTE/5G, it's very inconvinient as we already have our devices usually connected to mixers or other audio control equipment, so switching networks (thus disconnecting Wi-Fi) is not really convinient as there's quite high level of multi-tasking during stage setup.

That might be already done as it's possible to configure web page to save itself into browser in a way to work offline, I haven't tested to be honest.

3. Official Longer USB-C cable

The Hub supports up to 2 soldering irons at the same time. Personally I don't find need for this, but it might be very useful for some people. The problem I discovered is that the USB-C cable that somes with Hub+Iron bundle is ok for personal use, but I feel it might be slightly too short for dual-people use. I might be wrong because I was not in two-people situation - so let the others decide if this suggestion is even valid in the first place.

It's not really problem to buy longer high-wattage USB-C cable. But the official one is very flexible which is great for the ironing task, and finding something so flexible is kinda impossible.

Thanks iFixit!

⟐ Commented January 24, 2026 at 10:13 MST

How to upload a programming video of a temperature control?

Temperature control and PID control

⟐ Edited January 17, 2026 at 13:48 MST