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OK to use (much shorter) iPad Air LTE batt replacement for WiFi model?

I bought a battery & repair kit for replacing the battery in my 2014 iPad Air, Wi-Fi version. Yesterday I began going through the relevant iFixit guide in detail & noticed something – to wit, going through the comments, it seems that several persons who have successfully done the battery replacement opted to skip the very large number of steps in the second half of the guide for removing the logic board (and related components). In effect they skipped from getting the glass & digitizer off, right to removing the battery.

I also noticed that one of these persons, in so doing, cited the battery replacement guide for the LTE version of the Air. This got me curious. I have now looked at the LTE guide myself, plus Googled for any physical differences between the LTE and Wi-Fi editions that would preclude my following the LTE battery removal guide. I didn’t find any.

Basically the persons who skipped all those logic board-related steps were in effect following the LTE guide, even if most of them didn’t know it. And that is my question: is there any compelling reason I should NOT opt for the LTE guide and its much shorter procedure? To me the obvious advantage is that the fewer parts that must be removed, the less chance of an “oops” that will render the entire procedure moot. All it takes is tearing a precious cable or some such. It’s true that with the LTE version, you have other issues to contend with, i.e. needing to be very careful to manage the logic board’s still being in place; but from what I see there is still less overall hassle.

P.S. I have already gotten as far as removing the glass. This represents steps 1 - 31 in both guides - absolutely no apparent difference between them.

P.P.S. Also, if it matters, I have ordered the iFixit adhesive solvent to “inject” under the battery, which the WiFi battery replacement guide recommends as being safer than using the iOpener and heat. Oddly, there are no separate steps in the battery guide for using the solvent, but maybe these are mailed w/ it?

P.P.S. Guide links if these are handy; note the hours estimates are the same but this seems pro forma.

For Wi-Fi model - [invalid guide link]

For LTE model - [invalid guide link]

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In repair procedures in general there’s no “right way” to do it in my opinion. Whatever suits better your style and saves time is the best for you. In this case the longer procedure involving logic board removal is safer in a way, as it lets you deal with the battery without the risk of damaging the board if somebody slips out of place. In the other end, it exposes delicate parts like cables to removal with the risk something gets teared off or damaged in the process.

Personally I prefer to remove just the battery, but it’s just a personal preference. If you choose this road, be careful not to damage the battery inner parts, try not to bend it to avoid breaking and shorting inner elements as it may cause fire too. In case the battery you’re going to replace still holds charge, remember to let it fully drain before removal. Remember also that battery has a notch that actually goes below the logic board, thus you’ll have to gently lift the board to put battery in place..do it with the help of moderate heat. You’ll see detailed pictures at step 102 of this guide [invalid guide link]

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Randy Burgess will be eternally grateful.