Brett Hartt

Howdy folks, We’re always interested in advancing our tool selection and offerings, so we’d like to know what you think...

We at iFixit think the Pro Tech Toolkit is a pretty cool product, but we're interested in finding out what you, the...

Hi Alex, The diameter of the drive barrel (where the bit fits into the hexagonal socket) is 7.4 mm, and it’s 20 mm long. The bit sticks out beyond the end of the drive barrel by 19 mm.

When it’s cold in the office I microwave one and put it in my shoes to keep my toes warm (Don’t try walking on it when it’s hot though). It should be fine to freeze as well, but be careful flexing the iOpener when it’s cold, because the outer casing can get brittle when it’s super cold, so if you try and bend it too much it might crack and then leak once the filling has melted.

If the iOpener is room temperature, and you microwave it for 30s, it will be somewhere between 150 and 160 degrees Fahrenheit (depending on the wattage of your microwave). If you iOpener is already a little warm, but not too hot to touch, and you microwave it for 30 seconds, it will be around 190-200 degrees Fahrenheit.

Hey Per, Thanks for the suggestion! There’s the flexible extension that is available as part of the Mako Driver Kit: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Bit-Kit-Replacement-Components/IF145-195-14, though that’s only appropriate for the 4 mm driver.

It’s not a perfect Venn Diagram. Most notably, the Manta Driver Kit doesn’t have any of the larger Nut Drivers that the UBK has. Other than that, the UBK has the Flathead 1.3 mm, Hex 1/16”, Hex Security 3/32”,Hex Security 5/64”, Hex Security 7/64”, Torx T6 and T7 (not security) and the Manta Driver kit does not. However the Manta Driver kit does have the iPhone Standoff Bit, Triangle 2.2 mm, and Triangle 2.6 mm that the UBK does not. When we chose the bits for the Manta Driver Kit, it was really a pairing down of the least-necessary, and uncommonly used bits. I think if you bought the Manta, you would not miss any of the other bits that are in the UBK.

The Tri-point screws used by Nintendo don’t really go by mm sizes, they’re a special conical shape, so measuring 1.5 or 3.0 mm doesn’t really apply. If the Y1 is too big, then it’s likely that the screws are a Y0 size. They could even be a Y00, but I doubt that they would be as small as a Y000. The inscribed size of a Y1 point is ~1.6 mm, a Y0 is ~1.25 mm

Philip, that's a great idea! Kay Kay passed this over to me back in October, and I've been stewing on it for a while now. The problem is that it asks quite a bit out of the material. I've made a quick mockup of what you're describing, and each of those little metal fingers would have to be less than 0.5 mm. That might be possible, but like Dan said, it's likely that it would deform under use. I'll keep this in mind for future experimenting, but I'm thinking that this problem might have to be solved in a different way.

Hello Ben, thanks for your feedback! If our spudger is the most common one on the market, that certainly is flattering! We took inspiration from a variety of spudgers and came up with the design you see today, completely original, aside from the requisite "pointed on one end, flat on the other" design. With that in mind, could you share what you find to be a shortcoming of our spudger that is addressed by the Intertronics spudger?

Perhaps you mean something like this? https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Harley-Davidson_Sportster_Evolution

Hey Doug! That's a cool suggestion. While I always suggest making sure you're not leaving your spudger inside your repair patients when you close them up, bright colors are always helpful. We'll definitely consider that in a future spudger. In the meantime, our plastic opening tools come in a sweet iFixit blue that's a bit brighter than the black of our spudger, so hopefully you won't be leaving any of those behind.