Nick

https://youtu.be/hRM7bM0sW9Y At this point we shouldn't trust their word. They had a chance to be honest and went through...

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/2793... This is an answer of it’s time so I’m not mad about the rice thing, but we’ve...

https://ww.9to5mac.com/2020/01/14/fbi-encryption-apple-unlock/...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkrHjvjh...

The reason I am bringing this up is I had to answer another question relating to the HD cable failure in a non-Unibody MBP...

**If this belongs more in Answers, feel free to move it but I am posting it in Meta due to the subject matter.** As I...

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/5903...--incompatble+ink+cartridge+evenyhough#ans... I had to assume this question...

https://www.theverge.com/2019/8/23/20829...-selling-third-party-unsafe-banned-products-wsj-report I’m not surprised - I...

This just happened to this answer on a Xbone S I can’t properly fix unless the downvoter comes forward and while it’s...

https://www.theverge.com/2017/7/25/16026...-flash-end-of-support-2020...

The 7 is 4 generations out of date and 5 years old, so most of them are running on worn batteries and useless water resistance that’s no longer effective - 3-4 hours is kind of low but I’m also not surprised since the phone is so old. It’s time for a new battery if you’re still happy with the phone. I would expect ~12-14 hours of heavy use even on an old phone like that; 3-4 is a laptop and that’s too far gone. Do you have the 7 OR 7 Plus? I’m migrating this to Answers, so this needs to be known so it can be added or you need to do it and I will need to finalize this answer. Refer to this guide to change the battery.

IMPORTANT: That battery is for the E5270/5470/5570 - NOT the 5250. There are 3 for this laptop: (1) RYXXH (3 cell/38Wh) (2) G5M10 (4 cell/51Wh) (3) R0TMP (4 cell/62Wh) Not sure with this one and I’m leaning more towards no. The original is 7.4V and the pack sold here is 7.6V. I don’t own an E5250 (and honestly, never will unless it’s cheap and I can get the owner information or transfer done), but I think the extra .2V may come from them using the unloaded voltage, which is always always higher. DON’T CHANCE IT unless you’re absolutely certain as that kills machines. The only reason there is 3 is because you have 2 different configurations: (1) 2.5” SATA (38Wh) (2) 51/62Wh (mSATA interposer) The reason I do not own an E5250 and probably never will unless I somehow find one that’s all there for dirt cheap if I can transfer the ownership is the SSD issue. Once the mSATA SSD dies (they all do at a worse rate then 2.5” SATA), you need to downgrade the battery and reconfigure the machine in order to use it if...

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/5301... https://www.ifixit.com/User/3418095/Admi... You might need this: A real banhammer is available, but it requires a 3D printer.

They’re priced to be disposable and recycled as a unit when they die. It's easier for old ones because there's more in the scrap bins but the newer ones are hard because people don't always take them to a place who will strip and sell the good parts - they may take it somewhere who removes the battery and shreds the unit as a whole.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/6228... https://www.ifixit.com/User/3406904/Msn+... Stop spamming. Get some help.

@kristen It looks like the right drive since it’s SATA I. The later Fixed III drives are what don’t work in these MBPs. Up until 2011, the MBP was either SATA I (2006-2007) or SATA II (2008-2010) and yours is the earlier of the older machines - in this case, you have fewer drives to pick from because unlike the 2008-10 crowd who at least have SATA II to fall back on, you do not. You NEED a drive with I/II/III autosense or a II drive with the 1.5Gb/s jumper block for this machine.

Unless the risk gets too severe, I think I’m going to stick to Common Sense Antivirus a bit longer. I’ve never run it on a Mac before personally and have always been fine. I don’t have Flash installed and isolate that to Chrome as well - one less issue there.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/6182... https://www.ifixit.com/User/3378752/McAf... I miss when they actually tried to hide this garbage. It was more entertaining :(. It’s also hard to poke fun at bare spam attempts.

There has never been a clear answer, but in What is the clear substance made of? it was declared to be non-toxic. Best advice in your case is throw the baby food that’s been open around it away if you want to be safe unless there’s information about what’s in it posted. How to safely dispose of a punctured iOpener?, it seems to be a glycerol formulation. It shouldn’t be a problem, but if you’re still leery it’s better to be paranoid in cases like this.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/6170... https://www.ifixit.com/User/3369277/john... When you can’t match the device enough to fool people