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Keyboard part is same as apple repair program?

I know that Apple started program to change faulty keyboard of Macbook Pro. But my country haven’t apple repair center and I’m going to order part from ifixit.

[product|IF123-122] it looks correct part. My question is it is same as apple’s repair program part?

Answer this question I have this problem too

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This question was migrated from https://www.ifixit.com/Answers.

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What's your country?

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The short answer is no, it’s not the same—Apple doesn’t replace keyboards. Instead they replace the entire top case, including the frame, keyboard, battery, and speakers. All those parts are glued in place, designed not to be serviced. Replacing the keyboard by itself is do-able if you’re skilled and determined, but there are a lot of ways that it can go wrong, and we don’t have a guide for it on iFixit. Hope this helps!

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@jeffsu - While its a real pain to replace the keyboard subassembly we should at least pull together a guide of some sort.

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@danj Don't get me wrong, we'd love to have a guide! Feel free to make one if you have time... Here at HQ we have a pretty large backlog of guides to make for more common DIYs, so I don't think we'll have time. Although we did do a full teardown of the keyboard on the 2018 model, so that gives some idea what's involved (2016-2017 models lack the membrane and so should be a little easier to work on).

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@danj the problem is if you mess up ONE rivet to the point you can't drill it out, the keyboard will never fit in right again. It's something I'd have the guts to try, but I'd need to work on a few beat up test parts before taking on the real deal and showing *anyone*. For the rMBP keyboard, probably 2-3 test runs.

That's rare since I can usually figure it out with one try (as I did with my 360 Fat hard drive replacement guide showing bare drive access, although I did open it off camera to get an idea on how the spring stays in even though I already knew how). The keyboard requires a drill (good; mine is a secondhand freebie because it uses NiCd and the chuck locked up; the owner upgraded to 20V Lithium), durable bits, AND patience unless you like the idea of messing up a ~$600 part. No thank you if you think it's something one can do blindly.

I'm sure my drill will work, but as I've explained in a question on fixing my batteries they're worn out. One of them is 16.53V/1.08A (18V/1.1Ah) and the heavily degraded one is 13.43V/1.0A (same battery; it came with 2 new. DeWalt refers to what I have as a K-2 drill but uses the standard model number for all intents and purposes). You CANNOT get it wrong and my batteries aren't in the best shape.

A $3 oops and a $600+ oops are totally different matters.

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