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Calibrate or no battery from ifixit on macOS Catalina

I have replaced the OEM battery of my mac with one from ifixit.

The question is there a need to calibrate the new battery?

I read many comments on the web that says is not need it because there a Battery Health Management in macOS Catalina which I’m using it

Answer this question I have this problem too

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This question was migrated from https://www.ifixit.com/Answers.

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@miloshev - I moved your question to the Meta space so the iFixit staff see's it as its a good question to ask them!

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@kristen - Can you see if one of the staff can give us a good write up on calibration with the newer Touch Bar/Fn systems batteries with Mojave as well at Catalina as the battery management is different between them.

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@danj Hey Dan! Thanks for bringing my attention to this post. I'll see if the tech writers have any insight and get back to you soon!

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1 Answer

Hello! I have an update from @jeffsu.

“Whenever you replace the original battery, it’s wise to calibrate afterward. (The original battery comes calibrated from the factory.) The battery health management tools in macOS are designed to extend your battery’s lifespan in part by reducing the amount of time your battery spends at or near full charge capacity, not to replace the need for calibration. In fact, I doubt the battery management tools will even function properly until after the battery is calibrated. It may be necessary to temporarily disable the battery health feature in macOS so that you can calibrate as instructed (i.e. charge uninterrupted to 100%), and then re-enable that feature after calibration is complete. More on calibration and why it’s needed: https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Battery_Cali...

We’re also testing to confirm if the battery health software needs to be disabled for calibration. If this ends up being the case, we’ll update the calibration instructions.

I hope this answers your question!

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I need to know too @kristen. I usually reference the guide I did with my old Dell laptop because on the pre-Touchbar there is no difference other then not being able to do a full discharge. If it's an issue I may be better off addressing it by buying a MBP and making a Mac specific guide myself. I do it by using it where I got it since I'm not worried about the as purchased calibration (it's usually wrong), charge it until it's at 100% and then take note of the trusted calibration as my baseline.

I usually warn people that you can't do a full discharge like I can do on a Windows laptop but I never put it in the guide because it isn't specifically for Mac. Seems like a waste instead of instructing how to bypass BIOS blockouts on the Windows side I've had to work around.

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J M will be eternally grateful.
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