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What would be the best Mac laptop for my dad

It’s time for my dad to upgrade from the 2009 Lenovo ThinkPad that he uses for personal use. It’s becoming unbearably slow… even after upgrading to a SSD and maxing the RAM.

I have talked him into upgrading to a newer laptop and possibly even buying a MacBook/Pro/Air with the condition that it will run Windows smoothly. His requirements are that this Mac would be…

  • Good for web browsing
  • Able to run modern programs
  • Must be able to run Windows 8 or 10 smoothly and without significant lag. Any way of doing this is acceptable.
  • Have a decent trackpad
  • Have a decent keyboard
  • Larger screen for doing spreadsheets

My preferences are that…

With those constraints set, what would be the best Mac Laptop for this purpose?

I am weaning towards a late 2013 Retina MBP because I don’t think a 2012 unibody will be fast enough nor can it run Windows without lag.

I found a seller for this MBP on eBay that looks within our price range. Let me know if there are any red flags in the listing that I should be aware of. I am aware that this listing doesn’t include a charger. My dad can use my 2015 MBP charger if he needs to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MacBook-Pro-15-...

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does it have to be a mac? i am leaning away from buying apple at the moment as i think that competition between amd and intel is providing some cheap and good machines. if i had the money and did what the kids wanted i'd be getting an ASUS gaming machine and whooping their butts at fortnite. does it have to be a laptop? building your own desktop is totally fun, repairable and upgradeable, and made to what you actually need not what the manufacturer piles in.

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@pollytintop Since my dad will be storing sensitive personal info on the laptop he buys he wants a more secure laptop to store the information on. While both him and I know that Macs are not perfect when it comes to security they better protect against viruses and the like. A custom built desktop PC won’t be able to fit in the safe we will be storing this laptop in, Unfortunately.

Also, please tell me your kiddos aren’t like this when it comes to Fortnite...

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@ajcooke01 What I do for those clients (even if they're family) is if I know what they store is sensitive enough to need it is I will give the drive back upon request or offer the drive back. While I can ATA Secure Erase it I cannot guarantee 100% secure or complete erasure.

If it makes them sleep at night better that's fine and I'll let them keep the drive. I will remove the drive for anyone but if it's family I will work with the owner and we can decide what to do when they replace it in regards to the drive but let them change their mind later.

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@ajcooke01 nooooooo that is not my kids. they know all the dances for sure, but seeing as i HATE the game they are banned from annoying me with it or they are banned off the laptop/xbox/ps4 for a month.

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ps. i would not have bought that laptop at that price. to quote my favourite movie "tell him he's dreaming"

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Personally I draw the line at the rMBP on what NOT to buy. The soldered RAM bothered me when they did it in 2012 and it still bothers me. I don’t recommend those things to anyone.

Your best bet is to find a Mid 2012 13” since he probably doesn’t need the dGPU and performance the 15” has. The farthest I’d go is either the 2012 13” or 15” non-Retina because of the soldered RAM. It makes for a very expensive repair (unless you’re good at board level work!) or a slow machine if his budget limits him to 8GB variants since it’s going to be like that for the rest of it’s life. The non-Retina screen isn’t as good, but if he can’t afford 16GB now it can be added later on along the line.

And just in case you’re looking at a 17” for him… Please don’t unless he needs it. The 17” died in 2012 with the rMBP release and it’s a unwieldy machine you only get if you have a genuine need and the 2010 is the last “safe” one - I seriously doubt he needs it. Trust me; I used the 17” for 5 years and it’s NOT something you get “just because”. I mainly got it because it was the only laptop Apple sold with a good resolution screen (1920x1200 option was only on the 17” for many years). It’s an amazing machine IF you can live with the weight and portability compromises you WILL notice, but that’s also why the only ones who own them are people who have a need for it.

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Thanks Nick! I forgot to mention that he wants a larger screen for doing spreadsheets... but not a 17" MBP due to the weight and size.

Do you really think that a 2012 unibody MBP would be able to run Windows? I've had issues setting up Windows on my 2011 MBP. Boot Camp will identify my Windows 7 (genuine) installer disc as a Windows 10 installer disc which my Mac doesn't support.

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/797...

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Good thing I warned you about how bulky it is then.

I think Apple only officially supports Win7 on the non-Retina but it's new enough you can probably use reference drivers for the parts that don't have an Apple driver available.

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How well do you think a 15" MBP from 2012 will handle a virtual machine like Parallels Desktop? I can't run a virtual machine on my 15" MBP from 2011 because as soon as the virtual machine boots up there is extreme lag.

https://www.parallels.com/products/deskt...

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I'd pass on virtualization and run it native.

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I'm partial to the 2014/2015 15" rMBP. Great keyboard and screen.

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Most Helpful Answer

My personal Machine

2012 15" MBP. Add 512 or 1TB SSD. 16 GB RAM.

Apple MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.6 or 2.7 15" Mid-2012 Specs

Identifiers: Mid-2012 15" - MD546LL/A* - MacBookPro9,1 - A1286 - 2556*

https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbo...

Replace the HD cable and protect it as I show on this answer:

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/5319...

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@mayer will that Mac be able to run Windows just fine when it is maxxed out?

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@ajcooke01 It will run Windows just fine even before maxing it.

This machine is repairable. Take a look at the costs if a display is cracked. On this one the glass from Walmart (sans Apple logo) is $15.81 plus 30 minutes to repair.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Front-Glass-L...

Now just try to find the part on a 2017-18. Oh here's one from PowerBook Medic at $799.95

http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

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@mayer I’ve had problems with Macs that have internal SuperDrives recognizing genuine Windows 7 or 8 installation discs as Windows 10 discs, therefore denying me from installing Windows. Any ideas?

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@ajcooke01 first look at my completed comment above, you answered to fast while I was trying to even find a display for the retina.

As for installation of Windows. I boot from an external drive when installing Windows on an internal Mac Drive.

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When I went to the iFixit conference in San Louis Obispo last year I thought I'd get poo pooed for having an old 13" MBP 2012. Only to find that's exactly what everyone at iFixit was using! Oh, BTW the 13" MBP 2012 was produced through 2016 because of it's popularity. https://everymac.com/systems/apple/macbo...

Introduction Date: June 11, 2012 Discontinued Date: October 27, 2016

This means Apple will be supporting it until 2022.

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For your dad's use case, I think I'll cast my vote with Blake and Nick! I'd go with either a 2012 unibody or a 2014/2015 rMBP. @nick has done a good job outlining the benefits/drawbacks between the two.

I think the decision ultimately comes down to your dad's priorities. You'd be surprised at how well the 2012 unibodies still run (especially the ones with the i7 processors and SSD upgrades). If you ran Windows on its own partition and found all the drivers you needed, the 2012 would probably run Windows just fine.

That said, as much as soldered RAM is a huge bummer, I think he might get more mileage out of a newer machine. As long as he goes with 16gb on the rMBP, he'll have the same amount of possible RAM as the upgradable unibody, and he’ll get better driver support on Windows, better battery life, and a noticeably more efficient CPU.

The listing you posted doesn’t look too shady, but the “thick line going through the bottom portion of the screen” does throw a flag for me. There’s a tiny possibility that line is software-related, but it’s most likely the beginning of a failing screen. Unless your dad is okay spending another 300+ dollars down the road for a replacement part (lucky for him his son is a skilled fixer) I might keep looking.

I've worked with both machines, and honestly they each have their advantages. Enjoy the search, and let us know what you end up getting!

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And to further back my information, I usually don't recommend the 17" to anyone unless you're working in a professional production environment where the weight and bulk tradeoff works. If you know what you're getting and are willing to deal with it, I also don't have as much resistance to bringing it up as a model to look into. Parts availability also becomes an issue as it only catered to a small niche and the people who bought them hold onto them until they're worth more dead than alive. It was more of a warning if he decided to look into it so he knows what he's getting involved with when that time comes.

Usually, a line in the screen is indicative of a TAB (tape automated bonding) failure, which basically means you need a new LCD when it grows to the point it's all over the panel. I'd expect a discount on any system with that problem to cover the future repair I'll be stuck with.

I loved mine, but I also bought it for a very specific reason and I knew ahead of time it was going to be a brick.

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